A hard path into Ecuador’s Amazon

(Originally published in Travelmag, 24 Jan, 2007) Kinaweno, Ecuador. A small indigenous community of 20 in the middle of nowhere. To be more precise, in the middle of the Amazon jungle. My friend Liana, a fan of odd experiences, was easily convinced of the benefits and excitements of such a trip, so we plunged into this... Continue Reading →

A day at the museum

Another full day to spend in San Cristobal. I think we annoyed our hosts because we did not take any of the tours they offered – frankly, after meeting Cesar our standards were too high for guides and tours. And we just stopped liking our hosts after seeing who they were worshiping. The lady kept... Continue Reading →

In Zapatista Territory

I will start with a question - and don’t google the answer:  WHO ARE THE ZAPATISTAS? *** When I woke up I knew I had an unusual day ahead of me. Today I would go into Zapatista territory to learn more about the movement and to see first hand who the Zapatistas were. Cesar was... Continue Reading →

Maya Villages

We started our day with an enjoyable breakfast at an off-the-beaten-path place where we were the only customers. Big breakfast, delicious coffee.  We then headed to the Zocalo where we were supposed to look for a woman with a colorful umbrella who would arrange our trip to nearby Maya villages. Of course nobody was in... Continue Reading →

Palenque and Mexican sombreros

The road from San Cristobal to Palenque is long and curvy. It feels as if there is no stretch of straight road for 6 hours which is tough on the stomach, especially when sitting in the back row of a 14 person minivan. We were picked up in front of our house at 6 am by... Continue Reading →

In San Cristobal de las Casas

  A day reserved for exploring San Cristobal and getting the feel of the place. We left our colorful room and stepped out in  the fresh chilly air of this mountain town (altitude 2100m). We trotted joyfully through the white and blue colonnades of the courtyard and approached the exit.  Then we noticed it: to... Continue Reading →

Enter Chiapas

A Romanian, a Croatian and a Pole head for Chiapas. None of us knew much about this forsaken Mexican province. Landing in Mexico City is pretty spectacular. On approach, from high above, a sea of buildings stretch as far as the eye can see. The metropolitan area has a population of 20 millions…enough to fit the... Continue Reading →

Address – Nicaragua style

There are no addresses in Nicaragua. And some might find this confusing. No street names, no numbers, instead a lot of directions and points of reference (which sometimes don't exist anymore, having been destroyed by previous earthquakes). One would need  to know the past architecture of the cities and all the events that destroyed buildings,... Continue Reading →

Victoria vs Toña and Nicaraguan steak

If you are in Nicaragua you will most likely drink beer. And you will have to pick one side: Victoria or Toña. You have to join one group and stay faithful. There's no in-between. I chose Toña and as soon as I did that, I naturally started to  diss Victoria (pronounced "bictoria"). Because that's how things... Continue Reading →

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